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The air in New York buzzed with anticipation as Calvin Klein staged its long-awaited return to the runway, unveiling the Fall 2025 collection to a crowd of fashion insiders, celebrities, and industry power players. After a six-year hiatus from the traditional show format, the American fashion house proved that its presence in the high-fashion landscape remains as formidable as ever.
Under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni, Calvin Klein's latest offering revisited its minimalist heritage while pushing the boundaries of modern tailoring and sensual sophistication. The venue, 205 West 39th Street, was thick with nostalgia and excitement as Calvin Klein himself, now 82, greeted longtime friends like Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, marking a momentous homecoming for the brand.
Leoni, a 41-year-old Italian designer with experience at Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Céline, and The Row, took a refined, instinctive approach to the collection, avoiding an overt reliance on archival pieces. Instead, she explored a cinematic and real-world 24/7 wardrobe, blending sharp tailoring with effortless, everyday essentials.
The show opened with a sleek and simple all-black long-sleeve dress paired with black flats and thin-framed glasses, a direct nod to Calvin Klein’s iconic 1990s aesthetic.
The sensuality that has long defined the brand was present but subtly reimagined. The final looks—voluminous draped dresses and black fitted suits and coats—offered a softer yet structured approach to elegance. The CK One bottle-shaped evening bags added a clever, nostalgic touch, proving Leoni’s knack for cult objects.
One of the most compelling aspects of Leoni’s debut was her exploration of proportion and silhouette. She reintroduced skinny tailoring, an unexpected but refreshing counterpoint to the oversized shapes that have dominated recent seasons. "The skinny silhouette—it was very interesting for me, and quite refreshing compared to what I was coming from," Leoni said, hinting at a sharp, cropped knee-length look that may define the next era of Calvin Klein.
What previous creative directors of Calvin Klein have struggled with—finding the balance between minimalism and sensuality—Leoni approached with thoughtful precision. While the collection didn’t lean heavily into overt sex appeal, it raised the pulse in a way that felt fresh and modern.
Calvin Klein himself weighed in after the show, telling a fellow reporter, "For a start, it’s pretty extraordinary." With this strong debut, Veronica Leoni not only honored the brand’s legacy but also hinted at a compelling new direction—one that respects Klein’s original vision while pushing it forward into a new era of effortless, intelligent dressing.
